This past Sunday Paige and I attended the Landsgemeinde in
Appenzell Innerrhoden. What’s that, you
ask? And further, why? Well, it’s the annual open air public meeting
used in this Canton to elect officials, vote on referenda and generally just
decide stuff. It’s taken place at noon
on the last Sunday of April every year since 1378 and is held in the village
square in the center of town. The voting is done by a show of hands but prior
to 1991 this was done by raising a sword, a practice that was changed that year
when women were finally granted the right to vote. Up to that point, possession of a sword itself
had been the proof that one was stimmberechtigt
(has the right to vote) and since they were typically handed down from father
to son, no women owned one. These days a voter identify card is the
official proof but, and I admit to finding this pretty cool, for men the sword
still suffices. Perhaps not so
enlightened but it’s nice when traditions don’t die completely. In any case, I've been curious to attend this event ever since hearing about it and
having realized last year that this was the last of Switzerland’s twenty-six cantons
which I’d yet to visit, this was plainly the excuse I needed. So, at 8:17 Sunday morning we boarded the train
and set out on our little adventure. It’s
a three hour trip from Basel but like always, riding the Swiss trains was a
treat in itself. So pleasant with a
beautiful view of the lakes, mountains and country side rolling by. Once there, we followed the crowd, including
the nattily dressed men with their swords, towards the Landsgemeideplatz to
seek a good vantage point. The central area
had been cordoned off with gendarmes in shiny brass helmets stationed at the
entrances to check ID’s (or swords) before allowing the Stimmberechtigten entry
to the official voting area. Unfortunately,
the weather had turned wintery with grey skies dropping an unpleasant mix of
snow and rain but no matter, the turnout was good and the area grew full. At 12:15, uncharacteristically late, the
parade of officials, flags and people wearing funny hats began their special march
into the voting corral. Finally, what we’d
come for. I’d reviewed the agenda the
week before, just to see if anything especially interesting was on the
docket. A few years ago the Appenzellers
voted on whether nude hiking should be banned and the international media
caught wind of it and descended upon the town to cover the debate. I don’t know how close it was but they came
down on the side of modesty, resolving that the price of a naked stroll henceforth
would be CHF 200. Sadly, nothing so racy
was on the program this year but I did see that “their Excellencies”, the
Chinese, British and Canadian ambassadors would be present. Also, in addition to all of the local
politicians, Guy Parmelin, the Federal Council member responsible for Defense,
Civil Protection and Sport would be in attendance. Clearly, we were to be in good company. This
canton was the last to recognize women’s suffrage and the vintage of that
recognition still brings a bit of ignominy to the community each year. Indeed, it was mentioned during the moving remarks
made by Mr. Roland Inauen to open the meeting this year when he commented that
25 years ago, with half the people excluded, a true democracy did not really
exist. I was glad to hear him note this
as it shows that while there may be some lingering discomfort, it’s acknowledged
and in the past. The 16,000 citizens of
Appenzell are moving forward. This lies
in stark contrast to my own country where just last week, in the NY primary,
over half a million people voted for Donald Trump, showing that there are
plenty in the US who should feel a more contemporary and inexcusable sense of
shame. In the end, and in spite of the
weather, Paige and I judged the trip to have been more than worthwhile and if I
felt any disappointment it was only when the men voted by waving their hands,
not their splendid swords. This week, when recounting our escapade to co-workers,
I found that most were genuinely surprised that I’ve now visited all of the
cantons. I don’t find it so impressive
myself. It’s not like visiting all fifty
US states, an accomplishment requiring an intentional effort and one big enough
that I’m not even close. Some years ago
I made it to thirty-three but have been stuck there since. It’s all that flatness out west that’s sunk
me. I just haven’t found a sufficient
excuse. Now if Oklahoma, Nebraska and
South Dakota would only have a Landsgemeinde.
Then I’d go.
